Featured Destinations
Hilton Head
Booms of just about every description finally caught up with Hilton Head Island in 1956, when today’s dynamically growing retirement and entertainment destination joined the rest of the nation benefitting from the post-World War II growth craze. Once just a low-lying island amid sleepy backwaters, with a long history of temporary economic ups and extended downs, everything changed when a bridge to the island was completed.
These days, Hilton Head has a well-deserved, international reputation with golfers, sun worshippers, vacationing families and relaxation-focused retirees. For passing boats, this means plenty of diversions to sample, along with nature preserves and beaches to enjoy. And of course, there are lots of other local boat owners who have figured out what a genuine nautical nirvana this area is.
Part of Hilton Head’s popularity is a noticeable effort to keep both the children and parents happy on this family-friendly Sea Island. With several gated communities, eight places to access public beaches, and more than 20 parks of varying sizes, it’s no wonder the throngs begin to arrive in April and keep on coming right through October. Altogether, some three million visitors flock here each year.
Boating was kept foremost in the early developers’ plans for Hilton Head Island, which is a prime example of the fabled modern American success story. Its winning formula of both protected and wide-open waters, along with a heavy dose of natural beauty and man-made diversions, have made it a playground for both day-trippers and long-term inhabitants. Like the Myrtle Beach area at the northern end of South Carolina’s coast, there seems to be something for everyone here, 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
As one of the barrier-type Sea Islands built over eons of shifting sands and soils, Hilton Head was largely overlooked throughout much of its history. Even the plantation period of the early 19th century didn’t increase the local population much. After the Civil War, periodic hurricanes, crop failures and general isolation reduced outside interest to a few marketable timber stands and salable goods from a few hundred inhabitants whose livelihood was tied to the productive salt waters and marshes nearby.
But the island’s fortunes changed markedly in the early 1950s, when an entrepreneur named Charles E. Fraser saw this drowsy Lowcountry acreage as a potential playground for families. In 1956, the state built a modest swing bridge to the island and, within a year, Fraser was selling lots in a planned community called Sea Pines Plantation. By 1970, the island’s population had increased tenfold. In 1982, an even bigger and better fixed bridge was built and the town officially incorporated in 1983, followed by a frenetic pace of development and settlement, once again increasing the population ten-fold.
Today, Hilton Head boasts of more than 41,000 full-time residents living in more than a dozen gated communities. Millions of additional visitors begin to show up during the spring break weeks, followed by those interested in the well-known, springtime professional golf tour events, with families of sun worshippers and diversion enthusiasts arriving in droves by June.
Still, the island’s residents have remained sensitive to environmental concerns; after all, the beaches, forests and native animals represent a lot of what attracts all those visitors in the first place. Large tracts have been set aside for walking and hiking only. All sorts of backwaters attract shoal-draft, paddling boats by the score. The recreational fishing is reported to be good and if you need a Disney-esque fix, that’s here, too. For ICW cruisers, this sprawling playground also has plenty of boat-oriented amenities which might just inspire you to stay longer than you’d planned.
Used by aboriginals for thousands of years before Europeans showed up, Hilton Head was first named in 1663 by Capt. William Hilton, who explored the entire coastal plain as granted by King Charles II of England to eight of his favorite nobles. The island’s name changed numerous times as it evolved, eventually settling on Hilton Head again by the late 18th century. Local history includes Native settlements more than 10,000 years old. A 4,000-year-old “shell ring” on the island, believed to be a refuse dump that once surrounded a small village, is one of only 20 in existence and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Also in local history, at the time of the Civil War, a group of escaped slaves established a town on the site of a former plantation, which in 1862 became Mitchelville. Named for Union Army General Ormsby Mitchel, the place was the first self-governing town of Freedmen in America. Forward-thinking Mitchelville residents enacted a law requiring education for all children between the ages of 6 and 15, which is believed to be the first such act in the South. The Mitchelville Freedom Park today commemorates the settlement’s history.
Hilton Head Island also served as a key Union headquarters during the Civil War, contributing to the blockades of the Confederate-held ports of Charleston and Savannah. Much of its military history is still preserved for touring.
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Things to See and Do
There are a lot of diversions packed into this island, which is only 12 miles long by 5 miles wide. Hilton Head Island is home to more two dozen golf courses, hundreds of retail outlets, miles upon miles of cycling paths, dozens of nature preserves, and more than 200 species of birds and marine wildlife that includes periodic visits by the increasingly-rare loggerhead turtle. With enough marinas to nearly encircle the island, you’re never far from one activity or another, with some lining up at the docks to take you where you want to go.
Visit Civil War sites on the island or take a Gullah culture tour to nearby Daufuskie Island, one of the few Sea Islands where generations of traditional life still survive. Several operators offer trips to Daufuskie, which has a couple of resorts but is only accessible by boat. You might call on Vagabond Cruises (843-363-9026) at the Harbour Town Resort.
Sunday evening to Thursday, you can also take your own boat to Daufuskie and dock at Freeport Marina (843-785-8242), where maps and land-side tours are available. Daytime dockage is free if you eat at the nearby Old Daufuskie Crab Company (843-785-6652). The entire access area is also known as Cooper River Landing.
Hilton Head’s Coastal Discovery Museum (70 Honey Horn Drive; 843-689-6767), located well inland from the marinas, offers a wealth of information about the island’s history, culture and natural habitats. Trolley, walking and kayak tours regularly depart from the museum.

Guests of the centrally-located Shelter Cove Marina (877-567-6517), the island’s largest deep-water facility, benefit significantly from its location across from the Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort (888-909-9566), well up the well-protected Broad Creek. There are three highly rated golf courses (lessons are available), a comprehensive tennis center (also with instruction), fishing and water skiing trips, as well as other outdoor adventures like canoeing, kayaking, biking and general beach activities. Marina guests can enjoy free, on-demand shuttle service to the resort’s amenities via the Palmetto Dunes Buggy. Live music, food tasting events and summer fireworks also highlight the calendar. The neighboring Shelter Cove Towne Centre (40 Shelter Cove Lane; 843-686-3090) is loaded with numerous retail outlets.
The Arts Center of Coastal Carolina (14 Shelter Cove Lane; 843-842-2787) hosts concerts and theater productions and serves as a regional advocate for the performing and visual arts. The organization showcases local artists in its gallery and sponsors cultural festivals and education outreach in a variety of disciplines.
With youngsters aboard, try the family-oriented Adventure Cove (18 Folly Field Road; 843-842-9990) on the island’s north end, which features two 18-hole miniature golf courses and a giant arcade that could save the day if it rains. The Sandbox Children’s Museum (18 Pope Ave.; 843-842-7645) is an interactive stopover where the 8-and-younger set can play in a sandbox, scale a climbing wall or learn to tie sailors’ knots aboard a model of Captain William Hilton’s 1663 ship of discovery.
Parasailing, eco-cruises, kayak tours, water skiing and jet skis are just some of the on-the-water activities you will find on the island. Hilton Head also is bicycling nirvana, with flat terrain and 50 miles of public pathways and nature trails. Everything interconnects, so you can travel easily from resort to resort, and the beach sand is hard enough for good shoreside riding. A word of caution: Play the tides correctly when cycling on the beach, as you may have to change course if the tide is too high. Also, some of the resorts and select areas are private — inquire about where you can and cannot go before setting off; security is strict at some neighborhood checkpoints. You’ll find bike-rental outlets all over, and many offer free pickup and delivery.
Featured Marinas
Safe Harbor Skull Creek
843-681-8436Shelter Cove Marina
877-567-6517
Restaurants and Provisions
Skimming through a rundown of restaurants — there are more than 250 of various descriptions — you’ll find everything from fast-food joints to elegant, jacket-and-tie dining rooms, plus just about every other imaginable type of eatery. While most marinas have restaurants onsite, it is also worth exploring the dozens of options within walking distance or a short bike ride from the docks and anchorages. Here are a few that we tried or that were recommended to us by locals.
Guests of Shelter Cove Marina will find no less than eight eating possibilities at the nearby “restaurant row.” One of the highly-rated options is San Miguel’s Mexican Café (9 Harbourside Lane; 843-842-4555), which has numerous vegan-friendly offerings. Nearby, there’s a seafood dinner with a gorgeous sunset awaiting you at Scott’s Fish Market (17 Harbourside Lane; 843-785-7575). For French fare, same location, try Bistro 17 (843-785-5517). If you want a casual atmosphere while enjoying seafood and steaks, go to ELA’s On The Water (1 Shelter Cove Lane; 843-785-3030). Want the final touch on a fine meal at any local eatery? Try the all-star lineup of desserts at Frosty’s Italian Ices (9 Harbourside Lane; 843-341-5423), which specializes in gourmet Italian ice, gelato, ice cream and a wide assortment of treats.
If you need to stock up on provisions, Kroger (843-842-0540) is next door at the Shelter Cove Towne Centre (40 Shelter Cove Lane; 843-686-3090), which also features a Starbucks (24 Shelter Cove Lane; 843-816-6456). You’ll find close to a dozen other eateries well within walking distance.
For fine Italian cuisine, make the extra effort to go to Flora’s Italian Café (841 Wm. Hilton Pkwy.; 843-842-8200), where even professional food critics are impressed. It’s located just under a mile from Shelter Cove Marina.
At Windmill Harbour Marina, guests receive temporary membership to the adjoining South Carolina Yacht Club (843-681-7292), where the inventive culinary team seems to be prepping for top cooking competitions. In addition, there is a swimming pool, plus tennis, sauna and hot tubs to enjoy.
At Sea Pines, near Harbour Town’s candy-striped lighthouse, you’ll find seafood options galore and an excellent view at The Crazy Crab (843-363-2722), which also has an extensive take-out menu. Celebrating a special night out? Try CQ’s Restaurant (140 Lighthouse Road; 843-671-2779), where reservations are recommended.
Within easy walking distance of South Beach Marina, the Salty Dog Café (232 S. Sea Pines Drive; 843-671-2233) offers take-out and eat-in options, with an outdoor bar that stays open late into the night. They also have brand T-shirts, souvenirs, memorabilia and lots of other kitschy stuff, all aimed at family fun — which they’ve been pursuing since 1987.
Near the marinas on Broad Creek is Up the Creek Pub (18 Simmons Road; 843-681-3625), a little off the beaten path and a favorite with the local folks. The Old Oyster Factory (101 Marshland Road; 843-681-6040), on the site of an old cannery on Broad Creek, serves fine food with great views. Be sure to try Palmetto Bay Sunrise Café (843-686-3232) at the Palmetto Bay Marina complex for breakfast and lunch selections, including apple pancakes and shrimp hash.
Not far from Palmetto Bay Marina, treat yourself to some local cuisine at A Lowcountry Backyard Restaurant (32 Palmetto Bay Road; 843-785-9273), where everything is made from scratch and the staff treats you like an old friend.














