Featured Destinations
Essex
Superlatives have been routinely cast toward Essex for years: “The most picturesque.” “Perfect small American town.” “Unrivaled charm.” “No. 1 small town.” The praises have enticed tourists, transplant residents and boaters — primarily because they are more than warranted. Some come to Essex and never leave.
The mix of attributes is dreamy: a field of classic sailboats moored in the harbor like a living photograph; a 1776 inn where sea chanteys sway the tap room; two parks alive with activity (one, the waterfront grounds of a river museum housed in an 1878 steamboat warehouse), restored captains’ homes, and elegant shops streaming down Main Street toward the harbor.
Did we mention parades? Pans pound on Ground Hog Day. Ghoulish creatures list on Halloween. Illuminated boats escort Santa to the docks in December, and fife and drum corps commemorate the Burning of the Ships in May. The last is the newest addition put on by the Connecticut River Museum to recognize the disaster that blazed here during the War of 1812. It was when the British crept in at midnight and targeted the shipbuilding town for 12 hours. Twenty-three vessels at anchor or under construction were destroyed. Miraculously, no one was hurt, but the British commandeered many supplies from the chandleries, including all of the town’s rum.
When you’ve covered the main harbor, you can head toward two other villages in Essex. In Centerbrook, vintage train cars, which once ran the line from Hartford to Saybrook Point, clack through the marshes to a side-wheeler connection in neighboring Deep River. Farther along in Ivoryton, the Ivoryton Playhouse takes center stage with professional productions. The theatre was built as a recreation hall for workers who turned tusks into piano keys. It went on to feature the likes of Marlon Brando, Betty Grable, Art Carney and Katharine Hepburn.
Between all of the marinas and yacht clubs, boaters are well supplied with amenities and transient dockage. Northeast of Essex, boats raft up on summer weekends in the tranquil Hamburg Cove. It’s where locals like to hole up when the wind comes a-blowing. In fact, it is the only place where boats survived when the great hurricane of 1938 struck Essex and destroyed 100 yachts. Don’t worry about that today, though. Your stay in Essex is likely to be “most perfect.”
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Things to See and Do
The Essex community is active, and the town has made consistent improvements while holding on to historic character in the three villages of Essex, Centerbrook and Ivoryton. Many enjoy looking over the harbor from the groomed grounds of the Connecticut River Museum (67 Main St.; 860-767-8269) at the foot of Main Street. The small archive is impressive. It’s packed with an afternoon’s worth of exhibits, including a full-size replica of the first submarine, invented in 1776 and named the “Turtle.” Visit ctrivermuseum.org to see if one of the museum’s many events is on the docket while you’re in port.
Walking up Main Street from the harbor, specialty shops mingle with historic homes. The Romanesque-style St. John’s Episcopal Church is midway across from the gazebo and park at Middle Cove. You’ll often see wedding parties running between the two for photographs. At the head of town, the First Congregational Church looks over town. If you’re here in spring, its front hill has a spectacular daffodil display, one of several in town.
While you’re walking about, take time to linger within the many businesses. Fine art, jewelry, vintage items and pottery join hands at the Connecticut River Artisans (55 Main St.; 860-767-5457), the oldest, continuously operating artist cooperative in the state. Everything here is “Made in Connecticut” by more than 25 different craftspeople.
This town is one of the best places to explore your options if you’re in the market for a new vessel. Essex Yacht Sales (860-767-3013), on Pratt Street at Safe Harbor Dauntless Shipyard, has dealt in boats for more than 25 years. Its highly professional owner, Leslie Quarrier, is a longtime friend of many in the marine industry. She was recently honored with a Dedicated Service Award by the Certified Professional Yacht Brokers, an association that stands by its ethical practices.
Wilde Yacht Sales (39 Pratt St.; 860-767-2540) specializes in high-quality trawlers and runabouts. Open Monday through Saturday and on Sundays by appointment, Wilde Yacht Sales is the Northeast dealer for Nordic Tugs. Get on their mailing list if you want to know more about their future listings as well as their events. You can also consult with the sales and brokerage team at Essex Boat Works (860-767-8276), the Northeast dealer for San Juan Yachts.
Should you decide to join the ranks who have grounded themselves in Essex, call on Susan A. Malan at Sotheby’s International Realty (13 Main St.; 860-767-5011). She can help you put down roots in a town where she knows just about everything and everybody. Engaged in many local boards, clubs and associations over the years, Susan is also a dog lover.
Nobody is ever bored aboard an adventure with Essex Steam Train & Riverboat (1 Railroad Ave.; 860-767-0103), where you can chug into the past in a variety of ways. If kids are in the party, ride with a Hand on the Throttle, or plan your visit during a Thomas the Tank Engine weekend. (It’s best to buy prior tickets for the popular Thomas rides. Visit essexsteamtrain.com.) The narrated tours on the Essex Steam Train reflect on Connecticut River history, background that may help you decide your next adventure. Their Essex Clipper Dinner Train serves up a four-course meal in restored 1920’s Pullman diners pulled by a vintage diesel locomotive. The centerpiece of Ivoryton is the historic Ivoryton Playhouse (103 Main St.; 860-767-7318), where the late Katharine Hepburn got her start in 1931. A library and several restaurants are in the village. Summer concerts are held both in the Ivoryton gazebo and at Middle Cove near the harbor
A half-mile upriver from Essex lies the prized fresh-water moorage of Hamburg Cove. It is a small, attractive retreat with simple outdoor beauty. In midsummer, weekdays are the best time to find moorings; anchoring is prohibited.
Featured Marinas
Essex Boat Works
860-767-8276Safe Harbor Essex Island
860-767-2483
Restaurants and Provisions
Between the three villages and an area two miles inland near a small shopping center, Essex boasts a diverse dining log. At the harbor, Dockside Seafood & Grill (860-662-4275) is, not surprisingly, dockside at Safe Harbor Dauntless Shipyard and overlooks the marina. They serve soups, salads, sandwiches, and seafood for lunch and dinner, and are open every day. Siren Kitchen & Bar (860-662-4224) is a casual spot at Safe Harbor Essex Island. They serve soups, salads, entrees, and cocktails, and have a frozen custard window. If you’re not staying on the island, a short ferry ride jumps you over the channel.
For fine dining, Carlson’s Landing (63 Main St.; 860-767-2727), at Essex Boat Works, occupies an unbeatable location at the foot of Main Street. They have a raw bar and a creative menu that pulls from land and sea. Opened in late 2019, Carlson’s has become a beloved gathering spot for locals and visitors alike.
The monumental Griswold Inn (36 Main St.; 860-767-1776) is practically synonymous with Essex. Known by most as “The Griz,” it has been in continuous operation since 1776 and has historic dining rooms beneath Currier and Ives maritime prints and antique firearms, possibly the largest privately held collection of marine art in the United States. The Tap Room brings sea shanties, blues, banjo and more to its loyal clientele.
In addition to spinning up high-quality pies that rival or exceed New Haven’s best, Privateers Pizza and Provisions (55 Main Street; 860-662-4497) is a small grocer with organic produce and other treasures. Call in or order online and Privateers will deliver to your marina.
At Essex Coffee & Tea Company (51 Main St.; 860-767-7804), the friendly staff doles out coffee drinks and baked goods. It’s hard to resist visiting the other half of the same building to grab a cone at Sweet P’s (51 Main St.; 860-767-7805). There’s a quiet courtyard with benches where you can savor your sweet purchase.
Nights have been known to get hopping at the Black Seal (15C Main St.; 860-767-0233), with nautical décor and classic pub fare. It’s been a town mainstay for more than 25 years and is a popular place for parched regatta participants. Be sure to inquire about the Black Seal’s specials of the day from one of the always cheerful and knowledgeable staff. They’re open every day.
Olive Oyl’s Cuisine (6 Main St.; 860-767-4909) is a large deli-style establishment. We adore the Turkey Tremendous, their version of the Thanksgiving sandwich. They have a long counter and a few tables inside, and outdoor seating. Memorabilia, including a flying Pegasus, and bay doors are a reminder of when the building was a gas station in the not-too-distant past.
Just up the street in Centerbrook, Cantina Los Charros (30 Main St.; 860-237-4189) is one of our favorites for authentic Mexican street food. In addition to indoor seating, there is a beer garden with string lights and live music. For breakfast or lunch, linger French café-style at Savour Cafe & Bakery (90 Main St.; 860-662-4438). You will salivate just looking through the glass cases. We recommend taking some French Macaroons back to the boat.
Also in Centerbrook, Black Jax Saloon (78 Main St.; 860-662-4000) deals meals for meat lovers. Pick your cut and a starter, salad or stuffie (baked potato with fixings) to go along with it. When it comes time to provision, it doesn’t get much better than the selection of imported cheeses pasta, bread, chocolate and more at The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook (33 Main St., 860-767-8500).
To get cookin’ at home or on board, head to Swanky’s Cookout Supply (5 Main St.; 860-581-7252) in Centerbrook. You’ll find high-quality grills, smokers, deck chairs and much more. Their flagship showroom is across from the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat.
A short cab ride inland from the marinas, Scotch Plains Tavern (124 Westbrook Road; 860-662-4032) attracts summer crowds with outdoor seating, fire pits and live music. There’s upstairs and downstairs dining indoors. Be sure to make reservations. The Bokum Center Shopping Plaza is just across the street with a Walgreens (860-767-2181), a sub shop, Chinese takeout and a liquor store.
The Blue Hound Cookery and Taproom (860-767-0260) brings the South (and a touch of New Orleans) to Ivoryton. This little gem is beloved by many. There’s a separate tap room on the upper level. Nearby, The Copper Beech Inn (46 Main St.; 860-767-0330) offers a breakfast and casual dining area as well as formal dining rooms in the lovely 19th century home.
Not far from the waterfront is Essex Plaza Laundry (1 Essex Plaza; 860-767-0131), a coin-operated laundromat where you can do your own wash or have it done for you with their pickup and delivery service. It is open 24/7 and staffed Monday through Friday.
