Featured Destinations
Portsmouth/Norfolk
Major league shipping dominates the waterfronts of both Portsmouth and Norfolk, as they have since these two cities’ earliest days. Both commercial and military ships come and go with surprising regularity, along with scores of recreational vessels moving about on a frequent basis, too. Upon entering Hampton Roads, the busy-ness of maritime activities here is always on display, with local tugs-and-barges adding to the big-ship hubbub, day and night. And while all this activity might be a little intimidating, we think a long stopover in either city will be worthwhile.
It may not be readily apparent from your helm, but Norfolk and Portsmouth actually have their own distinct personalities. Straddling the Elizabeth River, the westside city of Portsmouth is the “little brother” to Norfolk. Portsmouth has less than half the population of the city on the east shore but it’s a bit more oriented to smaller boats. Even better, there’s plenty of cooperation between the two. Visitors will find it easy to get back and forth between the two cities’ attractions, many of which focus on the long history of the area.
Norfolk began as trade hub with its initial settlement in the 1600s. Incorporated in 1705, it grew so rapidly that, by the time of the Revolutionary War, the British attempted to take the city intact. Instead, local patriots burned the city down, thwarting attempts to station an army here. After the war, citizens returned and the population soon came back to around 7,000, the eighth largest city in the new United States of America.
In 1801, the first Continental Naval Yard was built along Norfolk’s shores. Six years later, the USS Chesapeake was attacked and boarded by the British warship HMS Leopard. The British were looking for deserters from the Royal Navy, many of whom were American merchant sailors who were forced to serve on English ships. Four USS Chesapeake crew members were removed and charged with desertion, one of whom was subsequently hanged. The encounter and diplomatic fallout contributed to the outbreak of the War of 1812.
Today, the 4,300-acre Naval Station Norfolk is the largest naval base in the world. Also host to marinas and major tourist attractions like Nauticus and the battleship USS Wisconsin, Norfolk is a big city (population about 245,000), offering shopping, museums, theater and a varied arts scene. Additionally, it marks the beginning of the Intracoastal Waterway, also born in part out of military necessity. The Elizabeth River is the beginning of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), and both cities are well aware of the thousands of recreational sailors who use it annually, with Portsmouth being the most small-boat friendly of the two.
Named after a major port in England, Portsmouth is more retiring than its bigger neighbor — but far from sleepy. At either city-run marina, any recreational vessel under 40 feet may use the free overnight dockage, which helps you begin to explore the city’s well-known and major attraction, Olde Towne Historic District. From any marina, it’s an easy stroll among the city’s many tree-lined streets where you can begin touring the 62 locations in the Historic District. With numerous marine services and easy access to retail essentials downtown, this city has long been a favorite stop for long-distance, transient cruisers.
On the waterfront, you’ll see prominently displayed the city’s namesake, decommissioned lightship, Portsmouth, just one of many attractions in the Naval Shipyard Museum, which highlights the country’s oldest and largest naval shipyard. The city is also home to America’s oldest, continuously operating naval medical center, which was founded in 1827.
Ice-free and centrally located along the Atlantic coast, Norfolk and Portsmouth are strategically important to the defense of the United States. Along with the Navy’s huge footprint here, all of the U.S. Armed Forces branches have a major presence in the greater Hampton Roads region, with both active-duty and retired personnel in abundance. Additionally, an international military presence is here because Norfolk is headquarters for the Supreme Allied Commander Transformation, the only NATO command center in North America. Approximately 83,000 active-duty and reserve personnel and more than 40,000 civilians are directly employed by the nine different installations here. Add ancillary services and businesses, and you will quickly discover this is a major military-oriented and traveler-accommodating destination.
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Things to See and Do
As is the case with many East Coast ports, the greater Norfolk/Portsmouth area has a wide-ranging transit system to help you get everywhere you want to go. Check out the services of Hampton Roads Transit (757-222-6100; gohrt.com), which can essentially take you anywhere — via buses, light rail and a ferry — in the greater Hampton Roads area. In addition to Norfolk and Portsmouth, HRT serves Virginia Beach, Hampton, Newport News and Chesapeake. Inexpensive ticket packages are available, and your dockmaster should be able to help with details.
If you want to be within walking distance of numerous Norfolk attractions, marinas at Town Point will put you in the thick of things. Just inland to the north, there’s always something happening at the 8-acre Town Point Park (1 Waterside Drive; 757-441-2400). For decades, a top feature here has been the Norfolk Waterfront Jazz Festival, usually in late August. There’s also Norfolk Harborfest, usually in June, the Great American Picnic on July 4th, the Norfolk Latino Music Festival and numerous other events, plus some visits by tall ships.
Continue north along the waterfront to neighboring Nauticus (1 Waterside Drive; 757-664-1000), also known as the National Maritime Center. Among the highlights are a shark touch tank, interactive displays (you can try docking a supertanker on a simulator), and a 350-seat theater where 3-D movies drop you into air and sea operations. It would also be hard to miss the battleship USS Wisconsin, built in 1941 and now tied up at Nauticus. While you’re walking around its decks and admiring its 16-inch guns, docents will tell you about the ship’s service and history.
The Norfolk Historical Society maintains space at Historic Fort Norfolk (810 Front St.; 757-754-2004), which you can see free of charge and get plenty of information on the city’s past. Many of Norfolk’s historic sites are in the Freemason District, including the Hunter House Victorian Museum (240 W. Freemason St.; 757-623-9814), which includes one family’s relics from the late-19th century.
On the other side of town is Lafayette Park (3500 Granby St.; 757-823-4291), which has a boat ramp, playground and the nearby Virginia Zoo (757-441-2374), a 53-acre facility with 700 animals representing more than 150 different species, including the 2018 addition of “The World of Reptiles & Friends” exhibit. The park is a little more than 2 miles from Town Point marinas, so you will need transportation.
Public art is on display throughout Norfolk and the various installations are mapped out by Norfolk Arts, which is located at 810 Union Street and keeps things up to date at norfolkarts.net. Sooner or later, you will run across the art-inspired mermaids throughout the city, which grew out of the Mermaids on Parade project nearly two decades ago.
One of the premier galleries is the Chrysler Museum of Art (1 Memorial Place; 757-664-6200) — with both free admission and parking! Be there at noon for the molten glass demonstrations. Docents here are insightful and congenial. The museum is located on the fringe of the historic and culturally diverse Ghent neighborhood, three-quarters of a mile from Nauticus. Looking at a NOAA chart, it’s on the northeast edge of The Hague (formerly Smith Creek), the crescent-shaped waterway north of the USS Wisconsin. Ghent and The Hague were named by successful Dutch businessmen who settled here in the late 1800s.
The Norfolk Tides (150 Park Ave.; 757-622-2222) are the city’s Triple-A team affiliated with Baltimore Orioles. Their stadium, Harbor Park, is a seasonal stop for the local ferry and is on the light rail line. Other events take place here, too.
Across the river in Portsmouth, you’ll find the Portsmouth Welcome Center (206 High St.; 800-767-8782), a block or so inland of the city’s High Street Landing. You can get a map of 62 historic sites and walk around Olde Towne at your own pace or opt for the Path of History Self-Guided Tour, brochures for which are available at most marinas and the Welcome Center. On the tour, you can learn more about the district’s varied architecture and background.
In between the city’s landings is Riverfront Park, where the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Museum (2 High St.; 757-393-8591) will take you back in time with its Civil War artifacts and naval memorabilia. Nearby, step aboard the lightship Portsmouth, built in 1915. The tight quarters and single-minded mission will give you an insight to travel by water before electronics aided navigation.
The offerings at the Children’s Museum of Virginia (221 High St.; 757-393-5258), one block from High Street Landing, include a giant bubble machine and a planetarium. Kids of all ages are fascinated with the nearby Railroad Museum of Virginia (757-335-2284), located at Court and Wythe streets, a block from Ocean Yacht. It is open on Fridays and Saturdays only. In between it and Ocean Yacht Marina is Union Bank & Trust Pavilion (16 Crawford Circle; 757-393-8181), a 7,500-seat outdoor arena that hosts concerts and a craft beer and wine festival among its many events.
Featured Marinas
Ocean Yacht Marina
757-321-7432Tidewater Yacht Marina
757-393-2525
Restaurants and Provisions
Norfolk
You can’t miss the giant letters on a sign readily visible from the water denoting the city’s Waterside District (333 Waterside Drive; 757-426-7433), which is home to a dozen or more restaurants within easy walking distance of downtown attractions. There are also sports bars, food stalls and various festivals here throughout the tourist season.
Not too far away is Saltine (100 E. Main St.; 757-763-6280), which has been drawing rave reviews for its imaginative seafood and mixology options. A little farther away, but well worth the walk, is Luce (245 Granby St.; 757-502-7260), an Italian restaurant that goes way beyond your standard pastas and sauce. Just a peek at the wine list is inspiration enough.
If you prefer beer over wine, try Grace O’Malley’s (211 Granby St.; 757-333-3330) for an authentic Irish pub atmosphere, plus restaurant fare ranging from Kilkenny chicken to shepherd’s pie, and a huge selection of brews. There’s also live music on weekends.
Some say there is a religious experience to be had at the Monastery (443 Granby St.; 757-625-8193), known for its intimate atmosphere and authentic dishes from Hungary, Poland, Germany and the Czech Republic. Your hunger prayers are also answered at Freemason Abbey (209 W. Freemason St.; 757-622-3966), which offers heavenly burgers and prime rib in an old church next door to the Norfolk Historical Society.
Check out MacArthur Center (300 Monticello Ave.; 757-627-6000), an in-town mall chock-full of shops, chain restaurants and a movie theater, about four blocks inland from the water. There are two dozen or so more restaurants in the Ghent neighborhood, a five-minute cab ride from the waterfront. For family-style eating and a wide-ranging menu, check out No Frill Bar & Grill (806 Spotswood Ave.; 757-627-4262), which keeps the kids in mind as well as offering a fine selection of local craft beers. If you do want some frills, The Green Onion (1603 Colley Ave.; 757-963-1200) has table cloths and an outdoor patio where you can order from an eclectic menu and an interesting variety of cocktails.
Up in Little Creek on Norfolk’s northern shore, there is dining at the docks of Bay Point Marina, East Beach Marina and Morningstar Marina. For a sports bar, head five blocks south of Morningstar Marina for The Dirty Buffalo (4213 E. Little Creek Road; 757-321-7242), which has wings, of course. It’s in a mall that includes Sushi King (4249 E. Little Creek Road; 757-588-8866), a Japanese restaurant, as well as a CVS Pharmacy (4261 E. Little Creek Road; 757-588-0123), a Food Lion (4253 E. Little Creek Road; 757-583-7817) and a Starbucks (4231 E. Little Creek Road; 757-377-4611).
Over to the west in Willoughby Bay, it’s a fairly short walk from the transient marinas to Willoughby By The Bay (1534 W. Ocean View Ave.; 757-480-0226), which, as you might expect, focuses on seafood dishes with standard American fare as a solid backup.
Portsmouth
There’s no need of a long walk from the waterfront to get to Fish & Slips Marina Raw Bar & Grille (10 Crawford Parkway; 757-998-6631) at Tidewater Yacht Marina. The chef puts some new spins on casual comfort foods, along with spectacular views. Be sure to check out the specials — crabasaurus, anyone? On Sundays, their happy hour starts at 11 a.m. and they have a decent selection of beers on tap.
Also near the Town Point Reach marinas is Still (450 Court St.; 757-332-7222), which is well-known for its tapas, duck confit tacos and casual atmosphere. A little farther away is Olde Towne Public House (467 Court St.; 757-966-1229), which has 20 taps, “a wall of premium whiskey” and some pretty good pub grub. And sticking with the libations theme is Baron’s Pub & Restaurant (500 High St.; 757-399-4840), where the burgers are outstanding.
Catch a ball game and chow down at Roger Brown’s (316 High St.; 757-399-5377). If you’d rather satisfy your taste buds than your sports itch, check out The Bier Garden (438 High St.; 757-393-6022), where the usual German dishes join a Hungarian kolbasz dish on an eclectic menu.
If you want some breakfast before you head back out on the water, try Yoolk’s On Us (515 Washington St.; 757-392-3992), where they also serve lunches and Sunday brunch.
There is a Portsmouth Olde Towne Farmers Market every Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the corner of High and Court streets outside the Courthouse Galleries Courtyard. They sell locally and organically grown vegetables and much more. Many events are put on to coincide with the market (especially on first weekends of the month).
For boating gear and provisions, head to the marine stores at Tidewater Yacht Marina (757-393-2525) and Ocean Yacht Marina (757-321-7432). They will have what you need, or they’ll help you find it. Both are affiliated with Suntex, which owns and manages prime marina locations in 10 states.
