Featured Destinations
Block Island
A premier port of refuge for anyone on an Atlantic Ocean voyage, Block Island is centrally located a relatively short distance from Narragansett Bay, Buzzards Bay, Vineyard Sound and Nantucket Sound. From here you can make a straight passage to Cape May, N.J., 200 miles away; Norfolk, Va., 350 miles; Bermuda, 625 miles; and the Strait of Gibraltar, 3,000 miles.
The original inhabitants called this Manisses, or “island of the little god.” Italian Giovanni da Verrazzano, sailing for the French king, initially sighted the place in 1524 during his exploration of the New World. Almost a hundred years later, Adriaen Block charted the cay and named it after himself, “Adriaen’s Eyland.” The Europeans who came here later decided it was much easier to spell the Dutchman’s last name.
Perilous ledges, fog and open water can make for a difficult approach here. Between 1819 and 1838, nearly 60 vessels met their demise on or near Block Island. The obstacles haven’t changed much, but modern navigation and tenacity override it all with boaters counting down the days until they can head out to one of the island’s two harbors.
The haven of Great Salt Pond (New Harbor) spills into the island’s west side and is awash with activity, particularly during Block Island Race Week. On the island’s other side (yet just a walk away), Old Harbor is where the ferries operate.
All types of yacht racers, fishermen, bicyclists, bird watchers, beach lovers, environmentalists and partygoers from around the globe converge here. Almost all of the island’s economy is tied to tourism and the hospitality industry. During peak season, 20,000 people per day will arrive by ferry and on personal watercraft.
As the mecca of many a traveler, it is best to visit on a weekday from June through August. On summer weekends, many who come to retreat here are not on silent mode.
Despite its popularity, Block Island has managed to retain a faraway feeling. There is a no-frills aesthetic here that stimulates deep, relaxing breaths of its guests upon arrival. New Shoreham, the official name of the town that encompasses the entire geographic area of Block Island, does its best to ensure that tourism-related activities do not compromise the island’s character or natural and cultural resources.
More than 40 percent of this lamb chop-shaped paradise is protected. The Nature Conservancy calls the 9.7-square-mile island one of the “Last Great Places” in the Western Hemisphere. As the wind-swept and ocean-eroded bluffs rise above the horizon and the pristine green hills roll into view on your approach, you will agree the place is just as magical as when the first explorers landed here.
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Things to See and Do
Block Island is its own major attraction with a distinct pace and scale. The landscape reminds one of Scotland or Wales with its rolling hills and rugged ravines. Mansard and gambrel roofs cover lovely gingerbread and Victorian homes. Miles of Colonial-era stone walls, hundreds of freshwater ponds and amusements mostly of the old-fashioned variety evoke an earlier era. If it weren’t for the buzz, beep, bing, ding and ring of the electronic devices in everyone’s hands, you’d swear you were in a time warp.
You can rent bicycles and mopeds near most of the marinas. It’s about a 20-minute bike ride from the southern end to the northernmost point of the island. A couple of hills will test your endurance — we like to walk the bikes in those short stretches. Taxis are readily available from town as well, and the drivers double as tour guides. Walking through town is easy, notwithstanding the ferry throng.
Summer weekends are bound to be packed, so plan to arrive early if you expect any chance of finding space in the harbors, particularly around Memorial Day, the Fourth of July or Labor Day. On these occasions, you could practically walk across New Harbor on the decks of 2,000 or so boats. Don’t be surprised to find another 200-plus rafted together in Old Harbor.
In addition, Block Island Race Week in late June has a life of its own. During odd-numbered years, the event is held by the Storm Trysail Club, and in other years, a smaller, equally competitive regional regatta is held for the benefit of local charities. These sailboat races test the skills of novices and hardcore amateurs alongside seasoned veterans and professionals. Friendly rivalries exist on the water and ashore, and the camaraderie among participants is reminiscent of a reunion of long-lost relatives. It’s probably the busiest time to visit here.
For those who want to idle ashore there are two nice beaches near town. Row to the eastern side of Great Salt Pond, beach your dinghy, and walk across Corn Neck Road to Crescent Beach. The sand and usually light surf extend from Old Harbor to Jerry’s Point, offering excellent swimming and sandcastle opportunities. It’s family friendly and has facilities but isn’t the quietest option on the island. Ballard’s Beach on the east side of the Old Harbor breakwater is another popular option, this with a slightly larger surf.
More secluded alternatives and some stronger surge are farther afield. Head to Southeast Light and descend the wooden stairs from the towering Mohegan Bluffs to the sand and boulders below. You’ll see the Wind Farm just 3 miles to the southeast.
Another navigational landmark worth seeing is North Light, situated on the complete other side of the island from Southeast Light. The ride to North Light takes you along lovely quiet roads that open up to photographic vistas. Whether you travel by bike or car, the road ends at Settler’s Rock, the place where the first Europeans came ashore. From there, it’s about a mile’s walk over a sand-and-rock beach to reach the light. The terrain makes it feel a lot longer than it really is, but the view is worth the effort.
There are 28 miles of beach hikes and footpaths between the island’s northernmost and southernmost reaches in what are collectively called The Greenway. Visit the Nature Conservancy (352 High St.) or Old Harbor’s tourist information building for a map. Leashed dogs are permitted within The Greenway, and be aware that Lyme disease-carrying deer ticks are abundant.
Clay Head Hill Trail provides a spectacular view across the bluffs. It starts on Corn Neck Road, about 3 miles from Payne’s Dock and Champlin’s. From Old Harbor, walk up Crescent Beach and pick up the trail about 1.5 miles to the north. Keep going north and you’ll end up at the lighthouse.
For some visitors, Block Island is all about fishing. Anglers go to Southwest Ledge for sea bass and bluefish. At the docks in Great Pond’s southern reaches, Twin Maples (401-466-5547) has tackle, bait and apparel, including their signature “Eat Fish” shirts. Five hundred or so feet to the north, Block Island Fishworks & Sandy Point Lure Co. (40 Ocean Ave; 401-466-5392) carries rods, reels, rigs, lures and bait, and the staff will tell you what’s happening where. Be sure to make reservations if you decide to take one of their charter trips.
Another place for paddling and surfing adventures is Ocean Adventures (401-368-2611), which is at the corner of West Side Road and Ocean Avenue. They provide lessons, tours and even spear fishing excursions. Our preferred sortie is their run out to Block Island Oyster Co., where you’ll learn about farming the shellfish while tasting them. How often do you get to eat and exercise — and get an education?
School your visiting young ones about clamming with a shellfish permit for Great Salt Pond from the harbormaster’s office (401-466-3204). They can do a little crabbing, too. These are just a couple of activities ripe for kids without the need for a charged battery and internet service.
A little offbeat entertainment can be found at the 1661 Farm and Garden across from the 1661 Inn (401-466-2421). In the midst of wandering ducks and geese, you’ll likely be surprised to see some more exotic animals — kangaroo, camels, lemurs, emu, llamas and many more! It’s owned by the inn and open to the public. You can even buy a bag of feed.
The kids can also blow off some steam at Ball O’Brien Park, located between Champlin’s Marina & Resort (401-466-7777) and Payne’s Dock (401-466-5572). They have a skate park, basketball and tennis courts, and swings and climbing things.
You will, at some point, want to swing over to Old Harbor. The little town has it all: art galleries, bars, food, shopping, beaches and the ferry docks. There’s even a cinema. The historic Empire Theater (17 Water St.; 401-466-2555) shows movies and an occasional play by night, and during the day they have an open Artisan and Thrift Market.
A great resource concerning anything on Block Island is the Chamber of Commerce (401-466-2982). Stop by their office in Old Harbor on Water Street for maps and any questions you may have. They go out of their way to help you with a vast store of local knowledge, and they are open every day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Did we mention the town’s people? Not the locals — the tourists. Old Harbor is crowded by Block Island standards, somewhere between your yacht club bar after Wednesday night racing and your local church for Christmas Mass. Behaviors run the gamut.
Featured Marinas
Champlin’s Marina & Resort
401-466-7777Payne’s Dock
401-466-5572
Restaurants and Provisions
When you’re ready to go ashore to dine, planning ahead is key. Yes, there are more than 50 places to eat, but on summer weekends, restaurants are usually crowded and not all of them take reservations. In spring and fall, hours may be limited. Also, some places only take cash. Get the scoop in advance with a phone call to the establishment. There is a bank with a 24-hour ATM on the corner of Ocean Avenue and Dodge Street, a mile from the New Harbor marinas.
You won’t have to go far to fill an empty stomach or soothe a parched gullet. Many guests of Champlin’s Marina & Resort (401-466-7777) whittle away the hours at their Pier 76 Dock Bar, where many tales are shared and singing along to the live music is customary. Some patrons may prefer to dip into their pool bar. Other options for dining at Champlin’s are a seasonal restaurant, a food truck and a grab-and-go cafe. Your pooch will like their dog park and your grandchildren will enjoy their playground. For those at anchor or on a mooring, the launch boat within the harbor stops at Champlin’s. Bike rentals and taxis are available to go off the property.
At neighboring New Harbor Boat Basin, The Oar (401-466-8820) is the sailors’ choice during and after Race Week. It serves casual burgers and pub fare, all beneath an abundance of personalized hanging oars.
Next door, Payne’s Dock (401-466-5572) is an island institution, having been in the same family since 1936. The bars here are a preferred hangout for the overwhelmed locals during the summer, and there is live music every night. Challenge your mates to a game of cornhole while you listen to fishermen brag about their day. Many come to Payne’s to relax while enjoying the harbor view, especially around sunset. (For those looking for Clif Payne, the omnipresent greeter and grandson of founder Frank Payne, we must report that he passed away in late 2022, but their kin continue running the place. Salutes to Clif and the family are always appreciated.)
About 150 yards to the south is Dead Eye Dick’s (218 Ocean Ave.: 401-466-2654), known for swordfish and lobster. Its outside deck and casual atmosphere make it a perennial favorite with locals and visitors alike.
Toward Old Harbor, go for some comforting grub and grab some brews at Poor People’s Pub (33 Ocean Ave.; 401-466-8533). Around the corner, 200 yards away, the pairing of Winfield’s (401-466-5856) and Yellow Kittens (401-466-5855) on Corn Neck Road offers an unusual hop from fine dining to late-night partying. On those wild summer weekends, Yellow Kittens can usually be found by following the hum of late-night revelers. Across the street, McAloons (596 Corn Neck Road; 401-466-2928) is a family-friendly bar and grill.
You’ll find most of the island’s cafés and inns in Old Harbor. They’re also the ones where the ferry crowds chow down, so time your visit appropriately. During peak season, Old Harbor is both charming and a little annoying. Pedestrian traffic spills off the sidewalks, especially when the ferries arrive. Until the last boat leaves, it’s usually a very lively scene within a backdrop of picturesque architecture.
One of our favorite stops is Aldo’s Bakery (130 Weldon’s Way; 401-466-2198), which is one block inland from Water Street and the ferries. Delights include coffee, pastries, bread, cakes and ice cream (gluten-free). They also deliver directly to boats in New Harbor. Some evenings, Aldo’s sell fish.
Over on Water Street, Ballard’s Inn (401-466-2231) at the marina of the same name is known far and wide. The open dining area with its central bar, the beach with bonfires and music, the international summer staff sporting badges identifying their home countries — all fun.
Nondescript Rebecca’s Seafood Takeout (435 Water St.; 401-466-5411) serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is a tree nut- and peanut-free restaurant. Head there, too, if you want delicious fare to go — they’ll set you up for a hike or picnic. They also serve lunch and snacks from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Rebecca’s waterside location within the Crescent Beach pavilion.
You’ll be sure to find a good meal at the Harbor Grill (401-466-8808), which is located in the Harborside Inn (213 Water St.; 401-466-5504), and Mohegan Restaurant & Bar (2 spots down from 213 Water St.; 401-466-5911). Both are located across from the ferry dock. Ernie’s Old Harbor Restaurant (212 Water St.), also near the ferry landing, serves a fine breakfast.
The Hotel Manisses (251 Spring St.; 401-466-9898) is an elegant boutique alternative for fine dining or spending the night ashore. It is housed in a Victorian landmark less than a quarter-mile south of the ferry dock.
A competitor for Block Island’s best coffee is Persephone’s Kitchen (235 Dodge St.; 401-466-5070), where you can sip your morning brew with one of their simply delicious breakfast offerings. It’s just around the corner from the landmark National Hotel (36 Water St.; 401-466-2901), which has a full restaurant and bar as well as a darn good gelato spot.
For those with a sweet tooth, look for Blocks of Fudge (401-466-5196) on Chapel Street behind Eli’s Restaurant (401-466-5230), 150 yards from the ferries, or The Ice Cream Place (401-466-2198), a couple of doors to the south of Eli’s on Weldon’s Way.
Fresh-picked produce, just-baked treats and other specialties can be found at the farmers’ market, held Wednesday and Saturday mornings in season at Legion Park, 10 West Side Road. Go early — the sweet treats disappear quickly!
Restock the galley at Block Island Depot (101 Ocean Ave.; 401-466-2403), a half-mile from Payne’s, or Block Island Grocery & Package Store (242 Ocean Ave.; 401-466-2949), a quarter mile from the ferries. There’s a bank next door with an ATM. Seaside Market & Deli, across from the ferry dock, sells sundries and convenience items.
A post office (32 Water St.; 401-466-7733) is next to the Harbor Baptist Church about 150 yards from Ballard’s Marina, and there’s a library (401-466-3233) on Dodge Street behind the National Hotel. A medical center (401-466-2974) with a resuscitation/trauma bay and off-hours emergency care is at 6 Payne Road, which is about a mile south of the Old Harbor ferry docks and 2 miles from the marinas in New Harbor.
